Restoration of the Corgi 261 James Bond 007 Aston Martin DB5

The step by step guide shows how I undertook the restoration of the model .

The model when I bought it looked as if it was in a rather poor state at first but, on closer inspection I discovered that it was mechanically sound with all the various parts working although some a bit sluggishly and only the tyres and the passenger missing.

The paintwork however was in very poor state and showed that many hours of enjoyment had been had from this model by a child in the past.

This was the model as I bought it.

(all images are 'clickable to show a larger image)

The first step was to remove the rivet holding the baseplate on. On this model there is only the one rivet at the rear as the front is held by a tab that fits through the front of the body shell.

This is drilled using a 1.5mm drill bit to make a pilot hole followed by a 2mm drill bit. (The 2mm is the size of the rivet that will be used in re-assembly. )

Followed by a larger 6mm drill bit to remove the head from the rivet.

Be careful as the head is removed as the components inside are spring mounted. As the head is removed the base has a tendedncy to spring apart and the parts inside fall out.
This is the last thing that you want to happen as you need to see where all the parts fit in regards to each other.

Carefully remove the baseplate keeping the model upside down to prevent the loss of parts.
Once this has been removed take note of what all the bits are, where they fit and how they fit. Take notes and make diagrams to help you remember where they all go.
I have lost count of the number of times I have taken a model apart, made a mental note of parts and then, usually some weeks later have come to re-assemble it and can't remember how it fits together.
I now always take a few photographs at this stage to help me remember.

This photo shows the model completely dissassembled into the various component parts.

Everything except the shell, the roof and the rear bullet proof shield were then placed in a plastic bag for safe keeping and the body parts put in a caustic solution to remove the old paint.

These parts were then given 2 coats of primer followed by 2 coats of 'Maize Gold' metallic paint which in turn was then sealed with 2 coats of clear gloss lacquer.

When these parts were dry and fully hardened, the details were painted in by hand.

As the wheels on this model had lost their shine, they were also treated to a coat of 'chrome' silver paint.

The base was also hand painted in a satin finish grey.

These painted parts were then left to fully dry.

In the meantime the windshield was cleaned up using a plastic polish.

When all the various parts were dry the model was ready for re-assembly.
Put all the parts back into the model in the reverse order that you took them out. Refer to your notes or photos to assist you.
I usually add a few drops of light clock oil to all the various moving parts at this stage.

Put the baseplate back on and when happy that everything is as it should be, replace the rivet. I add just a blob of superglue to hold it in place.

As the baseplate is 'sprung' from the components inside, make sure that it is held down firmly while the glue sets.

The finished model with all parts in the closed positions.

and in the operated positions.

 

 

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